You know it can’t be a bad day when it starts with "Pack up, we’re going!" Okay, okay, that’s how it started already five days before the trip—full of excitement, we wanted to leave immediately, chasing the first forecast we saw.
But we took a step back, checked when the conditions would be best, and decided to wait until Sunday. Departure time: 8 AM.
Sunday
I wake up in the morning and check if Corrado made it to Mui Ne from Saigon after his night shift. He did. I pack my things and meet up with the crew at the surf house. We load the boards, grab all the gear, and set off.
Heading toward the waves, chasing the forecast and hoping for an empty lineup, great conditions, and new spot to add to our surf list.
I sit in the car and I listen to the guys Tuan, Tuan Anh, and Corrado
constantly checking the forecast, endlessly talking about it and anticipating what's there waiting. Kinda super thrilling part, expectations of the unknown.
Stan is already at the spot and sending videos, looks epic. For them, this is the wave, the one they’ve expected, researched for so long. Now, finally, the moment has come to surf it. Everything is falling into place...
For me, the only thing on my mind is how to capture these waves in the best way possible, finding the best angles for photography. Knowing that this waves will be a bit above my level, I didn’t even bother to bring a board (mistake). Instead, I packed all my gear and stoked to capture nice ridings.
Checking the map, I see we’re getting closer to the spot. The excitement in the car doesn’t stop.
Corrado: "I think this is it. No way, is this really it?!" ( to never stop being a kid, thank you surfing ).
Eyes filled with emotion, knowing they have four full days of surfing ahead—no worries, no distractions, just surf, rest, eat, and repeat.
We arrived. We settle into the camp.
The waves are here, we are here, and the surf is ON.
Next thing is how to get to the waves, 40min of paddling to get to the lineup is not an option. So we add a local fisherman to the story, with broken engine in the end, boat left on the lineup.. ah to keep it short, Tuan and Tuan Anh as locals handled the situation and decided to rent a Thúng chai and took the boys to the waves every day.. (click the link to check the video)
The first afternoon session was epic, tide bit high, waves super chill and mellow, but the guys are happy and satisfied. Everyone has their own story. They were completely frozen, but it didn’t matter—because the waves were more important. They just said, "Tomorrow, full wetsuits for sure. Play it smart."
Back at the camp, we sit together and review all the footage. What we noticed on arrival, and now confirm through videos, is that four to five different spots are working at the same time, a point break, an A-frame and a beautiful longboard A-frame as well.
Now, I’m starting to regret not bringing my board. We didn’t manage to rent one either (thanks, Stan!), but it’s okay. I know I’ll be back here in less than a month.
You know that feeling when you forget something at a hotel or a friend’s house? People say the universe will always find a way to bring you back. That’s how I feel about this place. I didn’t forget anything physical, but I left behind the experience of surfing this wave.
The Routine
Wake up. Coffee. Stretch. Water. Surf. Photos. Videos. Breakfast. Surf. Lunch. Rest. Surf. Dinner. Hang out.
Maybe not in that exact order for everyone, but that’s pretty much how the next three days went.
Guy's surfed in full wetsuits, they surfed three different spots, each with its own beauty and advantages. Most important, away from crowds.
With good vibes and friends who feel like family, these three days passed in an instant.
Even though the forecast predicted rain and bad weather, we only got a light drizzle one afternoon. On the last day, the sun came out as its just for us, to show us all the colors of this place that had given us so much over the past four days.
We learned a lot, we noticed a lot, and now we know exactly what to expect next time. Which will be very soon.
4 Days of Surfing
Tuan, Tuan Anh, Corrado, and Stan, four friends, four different personalities shared waves together and enjoying with what surfing is all about and sometimes forgotten.
I felt it too as I flew my drone above them, they always waved, knowing that these moments would be captured forever and me with them scoring these waves for first time together. Thanks guys...
Sara Viz
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